It’s hard to believe it’s been over two months since our last blog posting. In that time, we enjoyed a fabulous visit from our children, during which we explored new parts of Ukraine, and then got swept back up into the weekly whirlwind of researching, planning and teaching our classes. What is harder to believe is that our one year anniversary of arriving in Ukraine approaches at the end of this month! We note that life here has taken on a certain normalcy. The ‘cultural moments,’ or experiences that remind us we’re not in Kansas anymore, happen less often. Can’t imagine that Ukraine or Ukrainians have changed for us, so we assume the acculturation has happened on our end.
Today is International Women’s Day, a major holiday here. Since this year it falls on Saturday, schools are closed on Monday. Women receive flowers, candy, and gifts, while the men do most of the cooking. There was a minor day to celebrate men last month – formerly Soviet Army day – but this is a much bigger deal. Our Ukrainian friends are surprised to learn that the US doesn’t celebrate this holiday.
We did have one recent minor cultural moment. We attended a local performance of Swan Lake by the visiting Moscow City Ballet. It was a fine production. At its conclusion, the audience applauded loudly. But soon the cacophonous roar of applause morphed into a single rhythmic sound, in which all were clapping to a single beat to show their appreciation, serving a purpose similar to our standing ovation. But to our ears it was jarring, almost rude. The same thing happened this week at the conclusion of a wonderful concert by a pianist from Kiev. It was still jarring, but now less noteworthy.
In fact, here are some former cultural moments that no longer elicit much notice:
§ Uneven and/or missing chunks of sidewalk, uncovered manholes, etc. We’re so familiar with our neighborhood and other well-trod parts of town that we only have to look down at our feet when we’re in unfamiliar sections of town.
§ Friday and Saturday bridal caravans. It is Ukrainian tradition for the bridal party to drive around town in a caravan of decorated cars, often rented especially for the occasion, honking and making stops at major landmarks to leave flowers and take pictures. By evening on most Fridays and Saturdays – the traditional wedding days here – all the statues and memorials are festooned with beautiful beribboned bouquets.
For the last two weeks we’ve had wonderful spring-like weather. As usual, with more warmth and sunshine come energy and renewal. We’ve even gone back to hanging our laundry to dry outside on our little balcony rather than inside draped over radiators and furniture! However, our centrally-controlled apartment heat quietly continues its work.
Saturday, March 8, 2008
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